Kaffe Fassett: A Life in Colour - Highlights Tour

Excellent day on Wednesday at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London! I joined the highlights tour of the Kaffe Fasset Exhibition, led by Celia Joicey, head of the FTM. What a great opportunity to hear more about the background of the Exhibition while being inspired by all this glorious colour.

Kaffe Fassett Knitted Shawl

We gathered in the first room, where Celia introduced the FTM and the Exhibition. Kaffe's family photos and some of his early work were on display and I particularly enjoyed looking at the sketch books with these beautiful detailed studies.

Kaffe Fassett Sketchbook

Kaffe Fassett Sketchbook

Celia highlighted the importance of Kaffe's collaborations with Bill Gib, Ehrman Tapestries, Missoni and Rowan Yarns. She told us that the Kaffe Fassett studio now produces around 90 fabric prints a year for Rowan, which are then used in their quilt designs. A huge number of print and knit samples are pinned to the wall in the middle of the Exhibition. I spent lots of time here!

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

After the tour, I took a closer look at the colour charts and designs hanging in the conference room upstairs. These framed studies show the level of detail and the incredible number of colour combinations that go into Kaffe Fassett designs.

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

This was my second visit to the Exhibition and I really enjoyed having another look at everything. These amazing knitted coats stood out for me.

Detail on back of Kaffe Fassett Coat

Detail on back of Kaffe Fassett Coat

 

Kaffe Fassett Coat

The Kaffe Fassett: A Life in Colour Exhibition is on until 29th June 2013 and the last Highlights Tour is on 26th June at 1pm.

London Collections: Men SS14

Men's fashion is currently on the catwalk in London! From the bold and dramatic to the elegant and understated, there is something for everyone at London Collections: Men. Here are my highlights from the Spring/Summer 2014 collections (images from the British Fashion Council website).

Kay Kwok

Kay Kwok

Topman Design

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

J. W. Anderson

J. W. Anderson

KTZ

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Sibling

Sibling

Sibling

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

James Long

James Long

James Long

James Long

Nicole Farhi 

Nicole Farhi

David Bowie Is...

I have just watched the brilliant 'David Bowie - Five Years' on BBC iPlayer and I now really want to revisit the V&A's David Bowie Is Exhibition! This outstanding exhibition at the V&A Museum uses individual headsets to create a unique sound and vision experience for each visitor. Moving through the exhibition rooms, your personal soundtrack changes depending on where you are standing and what is in front of you.

Image from V&A Website

Curators Victoria Broakes and Geoffrey Marsh had access to David Bowie's personal archive. From over 75,000 items in the archive, they selected 300 that they felt best illustrated the many aspects of Bowie’s iconic status. Displays include hand written song lyrics, designs for stage sets, photographs, videos, artwork and, of course, the magnificent costumes. Although the tailored coats designed by Alexander MacQueen are worth the visit alone, it was the eye catching knit and crochet garments that really got my attention. 

Costume for Earthling Designed by Alexander MacQueen
Image from V&A Website

Collaboration with leading artists and designers has been a feature throughout Bowie’s career and the exhibition explores this in detail through interviews and examples. From Natasha Korniloff’s cobweb crochet costume with appliqué gold hands to the asymmetrical knit costume by Kensai Yamamoto, David Bowie’s stage costumes shock and dazzle. 

Costume designed by Natasha Korniloff
Image from V&A Website

A 1973 asymmetric Kensai Yamamoto knit costume is displayed on a crouching mannequin and shown in concert footage on the huge screens towards the end of the exhibition. In a recorded interview in another part of the exhibition, Yamamoto describes his collaboration with David Bowie as Bowie’s western aesthetic and Yamamoto’s Eastern aethsetic crashing into each other.  

Display of Kensai Yamamoto Knit Costume
Image from V&A website

Another display shows the classic sweater in blue with white polkadots designed by Freddie Burretti. Worn with a pale blue suit for the 1974 Diamond Dogs tour, the sweater is also shown as worn by Bowie in concert on the giant display. At the time, the exhibition notes, many fans made copies of this iconic Bowie sweater. 

Freddie Burretti Costume display in front of huge video screen
Image from V&A website

David Bowie Is......

......wonderful for fans of David Bowie and for those interested in seeing how he used the popular culture around him to define himself and then in turn inspired other artists and designers. There is a section towards the end of the exhibition showing examples of his influence in fashion and beyond with examples such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Lady Gaga.

David Bowie Is.....
.....a huge success and very enjoyable. The Exhibition sold more advanced tickets than any other at the V&A and I thoroughly recommend a visit. 

David Bowie Is.....
.....at the V&A until 11th August 2013. 
.....and in 'David Bowie - Five Years' on BBC iPlayer until Saturday, 1/6/13!

Kaffe Fassett: A Life in Colour

The Kaffe Fassett Exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London is a 'must visit' for unique and exciting colour inspiration. From the beautiful mosaic pot in the entrance hallway to the huge quilted, stitched and knitted wall hangings, the designs have been dramatically displayed by curator, Sue Timney.

Image from FTM website

Mosaic pot and quilts displayed at the Kaffe Fassett Exhibition
Image from FTM Website

Many visitors know Kaffe Fassett's work really well and will have already read his autobiography, Dreaming in Colour. He was interviewed at the V&A Museum in December, giving a fascinating overview of his career (posted on this blog). This current exhibition at the FTM brings together many of his knitted, quilted and stitched highlights with lots of background information too.

Close up of Kaffe Fassett designed knitted shawl
Photo by Emma Vining

Kaffe Fassett Embellished Knitting
Photo by Emma Vining

My favourite part of the exhibition is the wall of samples labelled 'Please Touch'. Covered in fabric and knit samples, visitors are invited to feel the yarns and fabrics and best of all, turn them over to see the reverse side!

Fabric and Knit Sample Wall
Photo by Emma Vining

Another excellent feature of the exhibition was the 'live quilting' demonstration. As I chatted to the lovely volunteer demonstrating, she talked enthusiastically about her quilt, which was a beautiful combination of colour and pattern. What an inspirational spot to sit and quilt.

Upstairs, knitted garments are hung along the walls and this is a great opportunity to get up close to see the complex patterns and colours.

Display of Kaffe Fassett Knitted Garments
Photo by Emma Vining

Display of Kaffe Fassett Knitted Garments
Photo by Emma Vining

I thoroughly recommend a visit to this wonderful exhibition. There is so much to look at. The  background on Kaffe Fassett's career is fascinating to read and there are some very interesting videos on colour inspiration to view. I am already looking forward to having another look when I return to the FTM in June for the Knitwear Study Day.

Mosaic Tiles Wrap: Part Two in the Knitter Magazine

Part two of my Mosaic Tiles Wrap Pattern is the subscriber exclusive pattern in the Knitter Magazine this month. Issue 58 just arrived through the post and I am delighted to see my pattern and wrap shown so beautifully in the Magazine.

Mosaic Tiles Wrap by Emma Vining
The Knitter Issue 58
Image from the Knitter Blog

Looking at the Knitter blog, the wrap pictures also appear in a blog post on April 29th encouraging knitters to subscribe to the Apple digital magazine. I am so proud to have my pattern being used as an example of the kind of knitting pattern subscribers can expect. I hope knitters enjoy making the wrap as much as I did. The Habu bamboo lace yarn was such a pleasure to work with and the finished wrap is incredibly light with a flattering drape.

Mosaic Tiles Wrap by Emma Vining, The Knitter Issue 58
Image from the Knitter Blog

Craig Lawrence: Innovation and Imagination

The Craig Lawrence talk at the V&A on Monday 29th April, hosted by Tamsin Blanchard, Style Director of the Telegraph Magazine, revealed an imaginative and innovative designer pushing the boundaries of knitting. His stunning creations have been worn by celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Bjork and Tilda Swinton and were the focus of a Fashion in Motion Event at the V&A in July 2012.

Photo from www.vam.ac.uk

Beginning with when he was taught to knit by his Grandmother, Craig told us that he has always been interested in making things and knitting became a way of creating fabrics. After A levels in Art, Photography and Textiles and a foundation course at London College of Fashion, Craig studied Knitwear and Fashion at Central St Martins. At CSM he was encouraged to be experimental and free in his creations. As well as working with Gareth Pugh during this time, Craig used all kinds of non-traditional materials such as cotton tape, barrier tape, bin bags and 'shiny things'! He describes his search for materials as always being on the hunt for one long string of something that can be knitted.

Dukes of Hazard Tape at Patternity Exhibition
Photo by Emma Vining

For Bright Young Things, Craig was given his own window at Selfridges in Oxford Street. His gold foil knitted dress is made up of a tiny 'boob tube' style garment in the centre of pulled loops of material. Craig uses his loop technique to create huge volume.

Photo from www.selfridges.com

The designing and making of a smoking jacket for SHOWstudio.com was captured on camera, from knitting the individual pieces, designing on the stand through to the finished garment being modelled. The smoking jacket is made up of machine knitted circles. The video can be found on the SHOWstudio website.

Photo from show studio.com

Discussing his design process, Craig says that although he works with experimental fabrics and samples, a wearable garment is always at the back of his mind. He begins with picking his yarns, then moves on to the experimental knitting. This is followed by working on the stand and developing a silhouette, before creating final pieces. His garments are on sale at Dover Street Market in several major cities.

Fashion in Motion at the V&A in July 2012, was an opportunity for Craig to look back at his collections and see his favourite pieces in action. The Behind the Scenes Video and the Fashion in Motion video shown at the talk can be viewed on the V&A Chanel.

Photo from www.vam.ac.uk

So, what next for this creative and innovative designer? Having taken some time out in order to restructure his business, Craig is currently Artist in Residence at Somerset House in London and says he is enjoying every moment being located in the vaults under Waterloo Bridge.

He also is thinking of 'fluffy, metallicy' socks!