Zandra Rhodes: Unseen

Zandra Rhodes: Unseen is the inspiring new exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London. I spent an enjoyable few hours at the Exhibition on Saturday discovering new insights into this fascinating designer, her archive and her studio.

Throughout the exhibition there are wonderful examples of Zandra's amazing garment designs, beginning with a room featuring intricate beading.

Zandra Rhodes beaded garments
Photo by Emma Vining

Beading close up
Photo by Emma Vining

The display cases of sample designs show the level of detail that goes into each design. I particularly like the ones that look like drawing with stitches, beads and sequins. 

Zandra Rhodes Beading and Stitching Samples
Photo by Emma Vining

Zandra Rhodes Beading and Stitch Samples
Photo by Emma Vining

Zandra Rhodes Beading and Stitching Samples
Photo by Emma Vining

Zandra Rhodes Beading and Stitching Samples
Photo by Emma Vining

A highlight of the exhibition for me were the sketchbook dresses from the latest collection. The enlarged pages from Zandra's sketchbooks show how important drawing and sketching are to her. 

Zandra Rhodes Sketchbook Collection
Photo by Emma Vining

Zandra Rhodes Sketchbook Collection
Photo by Emma Vining

Zandra Rhodes Sketchbook Collection
Photo by Emma Vining

I enjoyed watching the short films that are part of the exhibition. In the first one (downstairs), Zandra talks about her design inspirations and her work ethic. She is so passionate about her work and her enthusiasm is infectious! In particular, she emphasises her inspiration from her drawing, making sure she completes a drawing a day. This is not always a design for a garment or print but one that might lead to such a design. She says that taking a photo is not enough and feels that a drawing goes more into your head. 

Zandra Rhodes Sketchbook
Photo by Emma Vining

The second film (upstairs) reveales Zandra's involvement with the ENO and the Opera, Aida. The costumes she designed are the perfect fit for the mood and drama of this Opera and her description of the design process involved is fascinating. 

Her sketchbooks are on display throughout. There is a lovely note in one of them that begins:

"don't panic.

Ideas cannot be forced.

Relax and give them the freedom to come out"

Excellent advice to those of us admiring her creativity at the exhibition. 

Zandra Rhodes Sketchbook
Photo by Emma Vining

Exhibition Dates
Image from the FTM website

Kaffe Fassett: A Life in Colour - Highlights Tour

Excellent day on Wednesday at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London! I joined the highlights tour of the Kaffe Fasset Exhibition, led by Celia Joicey, head of the FTM. What a great opportunity to hear more about the background of the Exhibition while being inspired by all this glorious colour.

Kaffe Fassett Knitted Shawl

We gathered in the first room, where Celia introduced the FTM and the Exhibition. Kaffe's family photos and some of his early work were on display and I particularly enjoyed looking at the sketch books with these beautiful detailed studies.

Kaffe Fassett Sketchbook

Kaffe Fassett Sketchbook

Celia highlighted the importance of Kaffe's collaborations with Bill Gib, Ehrman Tapestries, Missoni and Rowan Yarns. She told us that the Kaffe Fassett studio now produces around 90 fabric prints a year for Rowan, which are then used in their quilt designs. A huge number of print and knit samples are pinned to the wall in the middle of the Exhibition. I spent lots of time here!

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

Kaffe Fassett knit and print samples

After the tour, I took a closer look at the colour charts and designs hanging in the conference room upstairs. These framed studies show the level of detail and the incredible number of colour combinations that go into Kaffe Fassett designs.

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

Kaffe Fassett Colour detail

This was my second visit to the Exhibition and I really enjoyed having another look at everything. These amazing knitted coats stood out for me.

Detail on back of Kaffe Fassett Coat

Detail on back of Kaffe Fassett Coat

 

Kaffe Fassett Coat

The Kaffe Fassett: A Life in Colour Exhibition is on until 29th June 2013 and the last Highlights Tour is on 26th June at 1pm.

London Collections: Men SS14

Men's fashion is currently on the catwalk in London! From the bold and dramatic to the elegant and understated, there is something for everyone at London Collections: Men. Here are my highlights from the Spring/Summer 2014 collections (images from the British Fashion Council website).

Kay Kwok

Kay Kwok

Topman Design

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders

J. W. Anderson

J. W. Anderson

KTZ

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

Sibling

Sibling

Sibling

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

James Long

James Long

James Long

James Long

Nicole Farhi 

Nicole Farhi

David Bowie Is...

I have just watched the brilliant 'David Bowie - Five Years' on BBC iPlayer and I now really want to revisit the V&A's David Bowie Is Exhibition! This outstanding exhibition at the V&A Museum uses individual headsets to create a unique sound and vision experience for each visitor. Moving through the exhibition rooms, your personal soundtrack changes depending on where you are standing and what is in front of you.

Image from V&A Website

Curators Victoria Broakes and Geoffrey Marsh had access to David Bowie's personal archive. From over 75,000 items in the archive, they selected 300 that they felt best illustrated the many aspects of Bowie’s iconic status. Displays include hand written song lyrics, designs for stage sets, photographs, videos, artwork and, of course, the magnificent costumes. Although the tailored coats designed by Alexander MacQueen are worth the visit alone, it was the eye catching knit and crochet garments that really got my attention. 

Costume for Earthling Designed by Alexander MacQueen
Image from V&A Website

Collaboration with leading artists and designers has been a feature throughout Bowie’s career and the exhibition explores this in detail through interviews and examples. From Natasha Korniloff’s cobweb crochet costume with appliqué gold hands to the asymmetrical knit costume by Kensai Yamamoto, David Bowie’s stage costumes shock and dazzle. 

Costume designed by Natasha Korniloff
Image from V&A Website

A 1973 asymmetric Kensai Yamamoto knit costume is displayed on a crouching mannequin and shown in concert footage on the huge screens towards the end of the exhibition. In a recorded interview in another part of the exhibition, Yamamoto describes his collaboration with David Bowie as Bowie’s western aesthetic and Yamamoto’s Eastern aethsetic crashing into each other.  

Display of Kensai Yamamoto Knit Costume
Image from V&A website

Another display shows the classic sweater in blue with white polkadots designed by Freddie Burretti. Worn with a pale blue suit for the 1974 Diamond Dogs tour, the sweater is also shown as worn by Bowie in concert on the giant display. At the time, the exhibition notes, many fans made copies of this iconic Bowie sweater. 

Freddie Burretti Costume display in front of huge video screen
Image from V&A website

David Bowie Is......

......wonderful for fans of David Bowie and for those interested in seeing how he used the popular culture around him to define himself and then in turn inspired other artists and designers. There is a section towards the end of the exhibition showing examples of his influence in fashion and beyond with examples such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Lady Gaga.

David Bowie Is.....
.....a huge success and very enjoyable. The Exhibition sold more advanced tickets than any other at the V&A and I thoroughly recommend a visit. 

David Bowie Is.....
.....at the V&A until 11th August 2013. 
.....and in 'David Bowie - Five Years' on BBC iPlayer until Saturday, 1/6/13!